Easy Street

I went to bed late, but woke up in time for breakfast. As soon as I finished eating, I fell back into bed for another hour.

It was a great decision, and I had a weird dream that everyone in my host-home was speaking fluent English.

Then I woke up, took a shower, packed my bags and headed off to do 5 pages of homework. But before I settled in to do homework, I wandered around the shops and ended up buying myself a new mochila and a sweater!!

It's great, because it happened so naturally. I'm really picky about things that I buy, and so when the bag caught my eye and then the sweater in the same shopping stretch...it was kind of a miracle. And the prices were right.

I took my winnings to study with me at Cafe Brujula, which is basically my second home. The people who work there are starting to recognize me! And then, after studying, I went home (and then back out to find the band playing by the house. It was just playing in the street, and people were dancing in the streets and on their roofs).

Francis and I wandered out a few hours ago for some dinner. We checked out the goings on of the Zocalo, and got trapped in some giant parade/procession full of people wearing monster masks. We tried to make our way up that street which turned out to be a terrible idea. We ended up getting stuck in a mob-like crowd, being shoved and pushed. Francis eventually had to give the death stare to a guy who was being far too aggressive.

Oh, Oaxaca.

It's been a nice, relaxing day. It's nice to decompress. Hopefully I'll be a good girl and go to bed early so I'm ready for class tomorrow.

The Witching Hour

Don't forget to roll back the clock.

And what rhymes with clock? Rock. And where was I for the last 2 - 3 hours? A rock bar. And what was in this rock bar? A cover band.

It was pretty weird and kind of on the outset of the main part of town...and mostly full of dudes. But a large group of us were coerced into going, and ultimately it ended up being pretty fun. We took lots of silly pictures.

Before being coerced into this hair-shaking, head-banging fiesta we were all hanging out at the hostel. We sat around the table trying to mimic each others accents (which was a hilarious mix of Australian, English, Dutch, Finnish, German, and USAmerican) and talked about where we've been, where we're going next...

I really enjoy meeting people from all walks of life. And I enjoy meeting them in unexpected ways and places, too. I like feeling my world expanding and contracting at the same time.

Let me go back to the beginning of the day up to this point.

Francis and I were planning to go to Monte Alban and Arbol de Tule. Upon speaking with a cab driver, he mentioned that you can't just catch any cab to Monte Alban...so we decided to go to the tree first, and see where that took us. El Arbol was pretty beautiful. It's amazing to have been in the presence of something that feels so very eternal. The tree has surpassed 2000 years in age.

Can you even imagine? This tree has been living and growing and experiencing and adapting and changing for 2000+ years. And it may very well see 2000 more. And me? What's my measly 80 - 100 years in compared to that. And what a testament to the power of nature - and community as well.

After the tree, Francis and I wandered around...and happened upon two random donkeys on the sidewalk. That was interesting. Then we decided to hop a cab back to the city and devise a plan as to whether Monte Alban was feasible. The cab ride was all good and well until randomly the cab driver decided to put on his seatbelt.

Let's talk about the taxis here for a minute. Taxis can be found en mass cerca the beisbol stadium. They fill the street, and they have all sorts of places written on their windows. Basically, you just pick a cab - agree on a price for transport - and hop in. Now, just because you and your friend are in the cab doesn't mean it's only yours. The cab will continuously try to pick up more people until it's reached a full capacity of 6 or possibly even 7.

These cabs legally sit 5.

The seatbelts don't usually work (if there are any), and so no one wears a seatbelt. This is why it was startling that our cab driver randomly decided wearing his would be a good idea.

- For the record, people think cabs here are sketchy. If you know what you're doing, you're not an idiot, and aren't afraid of everything...you won't have a problem. And you can get around basically for free. That being said, there are some sketchy cabs here. So if you don't know what you're doing, you are an idiot, or you are easily frightened...don't bother trying to catch one on the street.

After he dropped us off, we decided Monte Alban wasn't going to happen (a series of hunger, fatigue, and overcast weather played heavily into our decision) and so we decided to find food in the city and hit the market. Lucy was supposed to meet a friend in the park, but her plans fell through and she joined us at Cafe Brujula.

She was on a hunt for tacos, and I was on a hunt for chocolate.

Neither tacos nor chocolate were had, but we did end up in this giant food-vendor-market and everyone in there was really aggressive. They were super competitive for business, and we were being assaulted with words and menus. It was scary, so we left and went to Lobo Azul. I had a tlayudita which was fine, but Lucy's food was super bland.

Ultimately, we were disappointed. The thing about Oaxaca is....the street food here is so good that restaurants are basically always a disappointment. Especially when you compare both quality and price....

It was then that Francis, Lucy, and I took off towards the hostel.
You know the rest of the story. 

T.G.I.Viernes

This morning, we had bean tamales for breakfast.

I love bean tamales.

We discussed the history of El Dia de Los Muertos, and the mezcla (mix) of christianity with indigenous customs. Conversations at breakfast in the casa of Renee y Paula are always super interesting.

Then, it was off to class. I got to the school and was feeling pretty energized. I'd slept a full 6 hours (which is virtually unheard of here, since there are always a million noises happening) and was feeling ready for the day.

And then my body changed its mind, and about an hour into class I was absolutely dying of fatigue. Or, in Spanish, Estoy muerta de cansansio.

Class also focused on Day of the Dead customs - and I'm growing ever more excited for it to actually arrive!! After class, I went home, ate Martita's miracle tostadas, and took a nap. At 4, I met with friends at the school and we walked to the Zocalo to meet more friends [I stopped and bought a shirt off a guy on the way. Well, I mean, I didn't buy it off him... I bought myself a shirt from him] and then we all walked into a neighborhood on the far side of the city where Cordelia got a cool hair cut.

In that same neighborhood is a huge market called El Mercado de Abastos.  It's like something out of a movie. It spreads in all directions forever and is full of basically everything you could possibly imagine. Machetes, children's toys, chicken, tacos, shirts, fruits, vegetables, cheese, pants, sunglasses.

I bought pants and sunglasses. I spent roughly 220 pesos on pants, a shirt, and sunglasses today. That is the USD equivalent of 17.00. If you are jealous right now, you definitely should be.

The interesting thing about El Mercado de Abastos is that it is notoriously dangerous - and you definitely feel that vibe in and around the market. There were many men walking around with full-face gang tattoos. It's not a place where you lose your friends, or pull out money if you don't need to. The neighborhood surrounding the market doesn't have a US equivalent. It's not a place where a girl can walk alone - day or night. There are dog packs that run wild in the streets, and random mounds of garbage. There are police on virtually every corner, and more and more turn up as it gets darker and darker.

Leaving the perceived safety bubble of my neighborhood definitely was an experience - and I think it's so important to have those experiences. It's important to poke holes in the bubble. It's important to see things from as many angles as possible.

After leaving the market, we went to eat at a taco places. Kind of. It's more than a taco place. But Billy called it a taco place, so I'm calling it one as well. I ate more tostadas. They were yummy and pretty. You know, beauty really counts when it comes to food.

Now I'm home, but I was planning to spend my Friday night out. Somehow, that didn't happen. And that's okay. Because I like having some downtime. Tomorrow brings me Monte Alban and El Arbol de Tule.

And tonight brings me texting, pretzels, and sleep.
Good night. 

Far Over

There's something important I need to mention, because it's something of a miracle.

I have been feeling really healthy in Oaxaca. My skin is clearer, my energy is higher, my appetite is normal and after I adjust to being awake....my stomach doesn't hurt. I don't have crazy nausea. I don't feel sick all day.

I feel really good. Even after I eat. Even after I eat street food.
This is the way I should always feel.

I've really been enjoying this trip - primarily for the fact that I'm getting to learn so much more about myself every single day. And I'm learning to appreciate me without restriction.

That sounds weird and cliche, and I even tried to write out exactly what about me I'm appreciating...but it sounded weird. The best way I can phrase it is this: through the various experiences I'm having, I am able to solidly say I know what is best for me in regards to different things (such as diet and routine), that patterns and schools of thoughts have been reinforced, that I'm allowed to be confident, and that there is as much to life as I've thought there was.

I'm allowed to sandwich myself on the median between traffic and enjoy it without feeling silly.
I'm allowed to like the music I like without feeling like I had to defend myself.
I'm allowed to appreciate the aesthetics of something that I might fundamentally disagree with.
I'm comfortable being human, and I am allowed to love the aspect of myself that really just loves people.

I feel like I'm not making sense.

Here's the thing, for a while I've been feeling like a square peg in a round hole. Here, right now, I'm a square peg in a square hole. And the people around me are whatever they want to be. Round, stars, triangles, octagons. And I'm allowed to be square, and I'm allowed to like what squares like, and believe what squares believe, and think the way squares think.

---- But that's enough of that. What about my day!?

Well, it included a lot of interesting conversation (books! politics! excursions!). It included plates full of good food (bananas! guava! enchiladas! sauteed veggies! tamales!). It included a combined-intercambio...and a 3 hours study session at Cafe Brujula (near the Zocalo) which I hope actually helps me.

Right now, it definitely doesn't feel that way. But sometimes you just need to sleep on what you've studied.

Today also included making a mask for Day of the Dead. At first, I thought I'd make a calavera, but I decided on a mosaic pattern instead...and I've got a snake on it as well (crawling across my face). It's super cool - and it's also fun to see everyone elses super cool masks! We had to mold our faces with this special stuff in order to make the masks, so they actually kind of look like us. Which makes everything that much creepier.

And, maybe - just maybe - today included me humming that song about the misty mountains to myself (from The Hobbit) every time I looked a the local misty mountain range here!

T.G.I.Today

I know I've talked about it a lot, but I'm obsessed with the way the clouds hang over the mountains. It's like no matter what they do, they're unable to separate from one another.

In the morning, I am always excited to say hello to the cloudy mountains. When I catch a glimpse of them as I'm walking to/from school, they make me incredibly happy.

Oaxaca has quickly become "home." It's weird, I think, how one can adapt to some places so quickly - and others not at all. I enjoy passing all the same people on the street every day. I feel like I know my neighborhood [and people in it]. I know where things are, and I can even give directions.

Success.

Today, there was a lot of waving at people that I know (or recognize). But that's just an aside. Let's have a run through of the day:

Breakfast was devoured with a vengeance. I was starving this morning.
Promptly after finishing breakfast, I went to school - where I decided I'd brush my teeth. (Usually, I do this at home. Today, I decided school was better....for no reason).
At 9 AM, class started. Marc and I were a "pareja" (pair) and we had a good time trying to come up with off-the-cuff examples of things Rapunzel from Tangled had never done.

Nunca habia sentido el viento.
Nunca habia jugado en la agua.
Nunca habia viste un mariposea.

Yeah. Like that.

Lunch came around at 1, but I don't get to eat until 1:30....so between 1:30 - 2:00 I scarfed down my 4 course meal. Yep. 4 courses. Soup, vegetables, the-most-delicious-mole-on-the-earth, fruit.

I'm not kidding. Martita is the best cook on earth. I'm never going to be able to eat mole anywhere else because she makes the very best mole on the planet. I made sure to tell her this. She appreciated the compliment.

At 2:00, I had my mask making class (for El Dia de Los Muertos). Today, we basically worked on our masks for 10 minutes, and chatted the rest of the time ---- while the masks dried. Mine is going to have a serpent on it!!!

After mask making was intercambio. My intercambio is called Dulce, and she's nice. Intercambio basically means she wants to learn English and I'm learning Spanish. We help each other with ideas, words, grammar, whatever. Sometimes, we just chat about random stuff.

Like machinery.

After intercambio, Francis and I met up with Billy and Thora (Dora)? at Cafe Brujula for some studying. I got a fruit smoothie (without milk, of course) which was perfect for a study snack! After a few hours of funny conversation and studying, Francis and I went to pick up our laundry from the laundry place (they do it for you, here). Then we went to our homes.

I spent a lot of time today just being appreciative - and enjoying the things I just seem to naturally enjoy. For example, when you cross the street here...sometimes you don't make it all the way across and you have to wait on a divider.

I love being stuck on the divider.

I appreciated the clouds on the mountains, the cuitones of a demonstration. I appreciated today what it means to be human. I think we're always so focused on being other things - a student, a parent, a spouse, a ....whatever.

No.

Before anything, I am human. And it's not often that I feel totally comfortable with being just that. But that is what I am. That is the beauty of being me - of us being us! That we feel and smell and hear and taste the world around us.

That's the way life is supposed to be.
You know.
Lived.

And remind me on of these days to actually try to put Alcala and the Zocalo into words. I feel like I should at least give it a go. 

Thanks, Oaxaca.

Every day I'm here is one more day that leaving doesn't feel like an option.

Sure, I wouldn't mind a night or two free of cuitones (fireworks) and campanias (bells). But I still encanta (love) hearing the tamale man, the 'gas de Oaxaca' man, the tortilla man.

Sure, I don't love that the water is scarce and not safe for drinking. But why should I care when the return is so much enjoyable culture, food, entertainment?

Every day, I'm reminded of how lucky I am.
Every day, I'm reminded of how beautiful I appear to be.
Every day, I'm learning something new.
Every day, I am surprised by something heartbreaking or heartwarming.
Every day, I remember fully what it means to be Nikki, and alive.

So - every day I'm here is one more day that leaving doesn't feel like an option.
But, of course that day will come.

And then, there will be no waking up for family breakfast at 8 AM. There will be no classes with Maestro Herman at the institute. There will be no culture classes, no political debates, no getting caught in the middle of fast paced traffic, no Zocalos, no random parade parties, no street vendors.

Today must have been a good day for me to be talking this way. :)

I went to school, had lunch, went back to school, and then studied at Cafe Brujula for 3 hours. Then, friends met up and we went to the coolest place - Nueva Babel - where I got a chocolate de agua!

It wasn't a particularly special day.
It was just a day that reminded me of the importance of community and connection, a day that reminded me where my passions lay.

It's amazing what you can learn about yourself when put into a situation completely unfamiliar - and it's nice to feel completely at peace with oneself.

Thanks, Oaxaca.

Monday, Monday.

What is there to say about Monday?

Well, it started off with suffering through class, but leaving early and seeing a doctor. But despite that small hurdle, the day was - of course - a success.

I really enjoyed class today because it challenged my thinking. We were actually learning concepts and ideas (specific to language) that I hadn't learned before. It stopped feeling like review, and turned into education.

At least for me. And, of course, every day - no matter what - I'm always learning new ways of saying things, or new vocabulary.

But it was exciting to practice using a new concept, and I also enjoyed the game we played where we had to describe a person in a picture (on an iPad) using the imperfect, and the person holding the picture had to guess who it was based on the description.

After leaving the school, I went home for a lay down and some lunch.

Lunch was a plate full of easy vegetables. Good for my sick little body. Dinner was definitely an antibiotic, and a cup of potato chips. Haha. Sometimes, you just need to eat the freakin' chips on the street, okay?

Anyway, after lunch was mask making class (for the day of the dead!) which was pretty exciting. We had to have our faces lathered in vaseline, and then these adhesives were molded around our faces....to form the beginning of our masks. It was especially entertaining hearing the boys cry in pain as they tried to remove the adhesive/masks from their beards.

The evening consisted of Francis and I looking for a laundromat (I can pick up my clothes on Wednesday), stopping in an intensely awesome shop with politically geared art/clothing (I bought a shirt & button), running into Jack (a guy from school), and eating potato chips in the Zocalo.

But, the highlight of the day was what I am going to call the "movie moment." I was crossing the street near the hospital when a man made eye contact with me. He said hola and I said hola and kept walking. I expected that to be the end of our interactions. A passing moment between strangers - like the gajillions of passing moments we have with people every day.

But then, about 3 minutes later, I feel a tap on my shoulder. Standing behind me is the man from the crosswalk. He wanted to know who I was.

Awesome. :)

Let's see what Tuesday brings!